The ‘glass skin’ Korean beauty trend has risks, experts warn

By Taylor Nicioli, CNN

Greta Costioli was once known as the “glass skin girl” on TikTok. Following the Korean beauty trend, Costioli would layer on product after product — toners, serums, essences and moisturizers — in pursuit of an ultra-dewy complexion.

Costioli, age 29, said that ever since she was a teenager she would apply extra moisturizer for her naturally dry complexion. When the “glass skin” trend became popular on social media, she fully leaned in, including trying one method requiring seven different layers of hydrating toner.

It may sound excessive, but that kind of elaborate skin care routine has become increasingly popular across TikTok and Instagram, where beauty influencers routinely film themselves using skincare products to achieve the glossy, almost reflective complexion known as “glass skin.” Celebrities including Kylie Jenner and Hailey Bieber have amplified the trend, posting their regimens that resulted in similar dewy skin.

What it’s based on

The glass skin trend has its roots in South Korean beauty culture, where the term is used to describe a complexion that appears exceptionally smooth and pore-less. The phrase appears to have first come around in the early to mid-2010s and then saw a major spike at the end of 2025 going into 2026, according to Google trends. Those who subscribe to the complex routines say their skin benefits from the layers of hydration, and viewers are hooked on the ASMR-like videos as influencers tap their glass-like faces with their fingers and beauty tools.

What we do or don’t know

Certain aspects of the glass skin routine, such as moisturizing and using sunscreen, are positive steps toward safe skincare, according to the American Academy of Dermatology. However, problems occur when people use too many products, which can lead to issues such as clogged pores, irritation and breakouts, the association said.

Because of the trend’s rising popularity, dermatologists are warning others that the glass skin look may be unrealistic and the skincare routines behind it aren’t suitable for every skin type.

Experts also point out that many of the videos contain advice from non-medical influencers, leading to a lack of basic safety information. New research presented September 29 at the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (EADV) Congress 2026 found that nearly 95% of the most viral videos on the trend contained misleading claims.

“We expected to find some gaps in the quality of the information, but I was surprised by how consistent they were,” Dr. Maria Lúcia Paysano, co-lead author of the study and a dermatology resident at the Professor Rubem David Azulay Institute of Dermatology in Brazil, said in an email.

The study authors screened the top videos across five Korean skincare-related search terms. After exclusions, 38 videos were assessed for dermatological claims and safety information using the Global Quality Scale and modified DISCERN, a tool used to assess the quality and reliability of health information.

Out of the 38 videos analyzed, only one video mentioned irritation risk, two addressed sun protection and none mentioned contact dermatitis risk or advised consulting a dermatologist, according to the study. About 45% recommended combining several active ingredients without safety advice, and 32% promised immediate results. Overall, none of the videos were produced by dermatologists, according to the study.

“Problems can arise when complex, one-size-fits-all routines encourage the use of multiple active ingredients without considering individual skin type, tolerance or irritation risk. A skincare routine should prioritize skin health and barrier function rather than simply trying to reproduce a viral appearance,” Paysano said.

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The bottom line is you can take it too far. For Costioli, who posts her skincare journey on social media, her glass skin routine initially worked well for her, but soon she started having adverse reactions.

“At first my skin really loved it, because I have dry skin and my skin absorbs skincare really well. I got a lot of compliments from people online and offline on how great my skin looked,” Costioli said in an email. “However, I kept compromising my skin barrier quite often, because I was simply using too many products.”

For her, a broken skin barrier looked like small red bumps on her face that would last for a few days. But if she continued with the extensive routines, the bumps would get more aggressive. “It wasn’t something I could keep up doing, so I had to reduce the steps in my skincare routine,” she said.

Experts agree that Korean skincare is not the problem. The concern is that social media can turn simple skincare practices into trendy and complex routines that may not work safely for everyone.

“The proof is in the pudding: none of these videos were created by dermatologists, so it should not be a shock that omissions and misinformation are ensued,” Dr. Mona Gohara, a board-certified dermatologist and clinical professor in the department of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine, said in an email. Gohara, who was not involved with the new study, added that many skincare trends, not just the glass skin, have amplified voices that are not medically trained.

Additionally, achieving pore-less skin is not possible, as pores are genetic and do not respond to layering products, said Dr. Jane Yoo, a board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon based in New York City.

“When patients try to attain this goal, they may inadvertently be disrupting their skin cycle as the physiologic exfoliation signals are now removed,” said Yoo, who is an assistant clinical professor at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai. Yoo was also not involved with the study.

Common skin issues she observes with her patients who have utilized too many products include contact dermatitis, rosacea and acne flares.

Tight, itchy, tender, inflamed, flakey or scaly, and red or darker skin are all signs that someone’s skin barrier may be damaged, added Gohara. To help your skin recover, she recommends pausing scrubs, exfoliating acids and retinoids, and instead cleansing with a gentle, pH neutral, non-soap cleanser and lukewarm water. She added that barrier repair creams can help, and to keep applying sunscreen during the day.

“It’s great to have patients educated on their skin but it’s not a one-size-fits-all approach. You have to know your skin type and work with a dermatologist to see if these products are right for you,” added Yoo.

The good news is, “you can pursue the glow while taking care of the skin beneath it,” Gohara said. She recommends moisturizing often, especially as skin can become drier with age and hormone changes. To boost that dewy look, layer from lightest to heaviest with a light, concentrated hydrating hyaluronic acid serum, followed by a moisturizer and then a barrier repair cream.

Yoo, who is a Korean American dermatologist, often tells patients that they do not need a complex routine for their skin. She typically recommends a four-step approach, including a simple cleanser, an active – such as retinol, Salicylic acid or Vitamin C – a moisturizer and SPF.

“The key is to know thy skin and know what it can tolerate,” Gohara said. “Add one product at a time, start slowly, and wear broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher every day. Sun damage is one of the biggest vibrance killers, along with stress, smog, smoking, lack of sleep, and yes sugar.”

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