Siargao, the ‘surf capital of the Philippines,’ is riding a wave of change

By Kate Springer, CNN

(CNN) — Siargao’s global reputation as the “surf capital of the Philippines” dates back to 1980, when surf photographer Tony Arruza and surfer Steve Jones visited the island in their quest for the “perfect wave.”

They hit the jackpot. These pioneering surf explorers spread the word about the area’s abundance of glass-barreled breaks, drawing surf enthusiasts to General Luna, the coastal town that serves as the gateway to many of Siargao’s attractions.

In the years following, American surfer and international fugitive Mike Boyum is said to have discovered the island’s now-famous Cloud 9 reef break, and surfing photographer John Callahan shot legends like Kevin Davidson, Evan Slater and Taylor Knox riding the powerful waves.

Today, the island’s magnetic energy — a blend of natural beauty, community and adventure — continues to attract visitors to the southeastern Philippines, with numbers growing exponentially each year.

Tourism has soared from roughly 13,600 international arrivals in 2012 to nearly 54,000 in 2023. Domestic travel has surged, too, jumping from almost 124,000 visitors in 2018 to over 476,000 in 2023 — a staggering increase for an island with around 150,000 residents.

And more changes are coming, including a cruise terminal, airport expansions and larger resort developments.

“While it’s great to see Siargao gain recognition, it’s crucial to preserve the island’s natural beauty and tight-knit community,” says Wemar Bonono, 28, a pro surfer and the co-founder of Pacifico Surf Bayay, Bigwish Surf School, Pacifico Surf School, Swell Snackbar and The Sun Crew charity.

“We’ve seen what’s happened in other island destinations. As long as we prioritize sustainability, eco-friendly initiatives and responsible tourism, Siargao can thrive without losing its charm.”

Bonono is part of a growing movement of residents committed to protecting Siargao’s essence while inviting like-minded travelers to share in its beauty through sustainable stays, voluntourism and immersive cultural experiences.

These are some of the dedicated individuals working to preserve the island’s magic.

A community-first vision for resorts

Ian Sermonia and Mike Medina, high school friends from Manila, set out in 2013 to open a surf resort that combined their love of hospitality and surfing.

“After searching all over the Philippines to find the right place for Harana, we fell in love with Siargao,” Sermonia tells CNN Travel.

“The island opened its heart to us the most.”

When Harana Surf Resort launched in 2015, Sermonia and Medina became the first Filipinos from Manila to open a surf resort there. However, as big city transplants, they still tried to integrate into the local community.

“Most of the first resorts were owned by foreigners who respected the local culture and just wanted to live the island life — surfing, hanging in nature and just enjoying the waves,” says 44-year-old Sermonia.

That strong foundation of slow living and sustainability in the island’s small but growing hospitality industry resonated with the two men, offering a sharp contrast to cautionary tales from other popular local destinations.

“Growing up, Boracay was one of our favorite destinations to spend our holidays and summer breaks,” he recalls. “And then we just saw it take a wrong turn. We were really conscious of that.”

Sermonia and Medina consulted STOKE Certified, a sustainability certification body specializing in surf and ski tourism.

“In addition to protecting the environment, they advised us to promote the local culture and make sure that the locals felt that they were part of the growth of Siargao,” he says.

For example, the resort hires locals, pays fair wages, gives discounts to guests who volunteer on the island, champions environmental protection and partners with local charities and nonprofits.

They also ensure the community feels included at their famous Saturday beach parties, creating a social space where residents and travelers mingle.

“That’s what keeps the vibe cool,” Sermonia says. “It’s not just tourists — it’s everyone together.”

Empowering the next generation

Growing up in Siargao, Bonono spent his days on a stretch of white sand called Big Wish Beach in Pacifico, a quiet village about an hour up the coast from General Luna.

Curious but lacking proper equipment, 9-year-old Bonono improvised with plywood until he could borrow a surfboard from friends.

He much preferred surfing to school, where he dropped out at age 10 after bad experiences.

“I had a tough time in school, which I was embarrassed about,” he says, adding that he learned to read when he was 16. “But actually, it’s what inspired me to start The Sun Crew.”

Founded in 2017, The Sun Crew is a local charity that teaches children to surf, provided they attend school and join weekend beach clean-ups.

Bonono and a friend, Australian expat Hannah Bowyer, started the initiative after noticing kids skipping school to watch tourists surf.

“I realized we could use surfing as an incentive to get them back in school,” he says.

What began as a small initiative has grown to support over 1,000 children from nearby villages, expanding to include summer school, literacy programs, math tutoring, plastic-collection initiatives and young women’s leadership development.

“They are the island’s future, so we want to help them combine their interest in surfing with education and instill environmental values, too,” he shares.

The Sun Crew also welcomes travelers who want to volunteer while they’re in Siargao, Bonono adds.

“The island has this incredible spirit where the locals and visitors come together, sharing a deep respect for the waves, nature and each other,” he says.

“This sense of belonging really sets Siargao apart – the strong surfing culture and this shared passion to protect this paradise.”

Protecting local livelihoods

Originally from Manila, Kara Rosas arrived in Siargao in 2019 for a three-month volunteer stint at Bayatakan Farm Experience, a hands-on farming and cultural immersion initiative.

While volunteering, she met owner Analyn Dulpina, who had partnered with a local snackbar up in Burgos, one of the northernmost towns on the island.

“The snackbar is a social enterprise — it’s a community space where people can gather around a snack, far from the main tourism area,” says Rosas, 27, who helped formalize the projects into an organization called Lokal Lab.

“While running the snackbar, Mark (Pintucan) and Iris (Aroa) wanted to ensure that at least 80% of what they served actually came from the island. That’s when we found out that there was a problem of food security in the sense that 97% of the island’s produce was imported, even though there are a lot of farms here.”

To address the issue, they teamed up with Dulpina to launch a slow-food market in General Luna where buyers, like restaurants and hotels, could connect with local producers.

By providing an economic ecosystem for local produce, Rosas says, Lokal Lab hopes to sustain traditional livelihoods like weaving and farming.

Otherwise, she worries that rapid tourism development will cause locals to sell their land or be forced to leave due to rising prices.

“They’re the food producers and the backbone of tourism — and we don’t want them to be ostracized from development,” Rosas adds. “That’s what happened in Bali … When visiting or moving to the island, we need to be careful not to gentrify it and be mindful about the island’s existing culture.”

On a mission to make Siargao a self-sustaining island, Lokal Lab also trains farmers in regenerative techniques, supports local artisans and hosts a youth-led storytelling initiative.

Travelers can experience Lokal Lab’s work at The Hub, a social enterprise in General Luna.

Set inside a renovated Filipino house, the community space and cafe showcases farm-to-table cuisine alongside immersive events and workshops.

It’s also the meeting point for Lokal Experience tours, which include hands-on farming experiences, cooking and traditional weaving experiences.

The organization’s latest project, Tropical Academy, is a vocational school teaching regenerative farming, with plans to add carpentry, culinary and hospitality skills.

“The idea is to empower locals so they don’t have to leave their communities for jobs,” she says. “We want them to be equipped with the knowledge and skills to start their own businesses and take control of their own livelihoods.”

Preserving nature and tackling plastic waste

Siargao is home to the Philippines’ largest mangrove stand, spanning over 4,800 hectares and providing shelter to rare and endangered species such as crocodiles, sea turtles and the Philippine cockatoo.

While the island and its surrounding waters have been designated a protected area since 1996, enforcement remains a challenge.

“When I go to the main island, I have noticed some changes — especially issues with waste management and plastic pollution,” Lady Carmel Litang tells CNN Travel.

“The more tourists that arrive on the island, the more plastic waste comes.”

The 25-year-old joined the nonprofit SEA Movement, which stands for Siargao Environmental Awareness, in 2022.

The organization aims to inspire collective action and environmental stewardship through beach cleanups, advocating for plastic-free alternatives, and educating locals and tourists on marine conservation.

Born and raised on Halian Island, off the west coast of Siargao, Litang also leads Halian SEAwikan, a turtle-nesting conservation program, and Saturday beach clean-ups with local island kids.

She also collaborates with the Department of Environment and Natural Resources (DENR) Provincial Environment and Natural Resources Office of Surigao Del Norte to conduct turtle conservation workshops in Halian and parts of Siargao.

Litang says the government and many other organizations are working on waste-management solutions, but travelers must also be mindful of their choices.

“There are some irresponsible tourists we can’t control,” she adds.

“But we are just hoping that the travelers who come here will be responsible and eco-conscious — that they travel to support the local communities.”

The road ahead

Despite the challenges of rapid tourism development, there’s hope among Siargao’s residents.

After the devastation of Typhoon Rai, known in the Philippines as Super Typhoon Odette, in December 2021, donations have poured into the region, providing a much-needed boost for the island’s restoration.

Moreover, a “Comprehensive Tourism Master Plan” was developed back in 2017 to provide a roadmap for balanced growth, but it hasn’t been implemented yet.

“It’s really unfortunate — it would have tackled key issues like rising tourism, power shortages, waste management and disaster resilience,” Felino A. Palafox, Jr., the award-winning Filipino architect whose namesake firm is behind the plan, tells CNN Travel.

“The government needs to implement the plan quickly — every new structure in Siargao should go above and beyond the building code to withstand super typhoons, earthquakes and tsunamis.”

CNN Travel has reached out to the DENR for comment but did not receive a reply prior to publishing.

Sermonia agrees that the master plan would push Siargao in a positive direction.

“The community is strong, but leadership must prioritize sustainable practices,” he says. “Politicians will ultimately decide where Siargao goes.”

For now, Sermonia says, Siargao is at a tipping point.

“Hundred-room resorts aren’t necessarily bad if they’re eco-friendly and locals feel like they’re part of the growth,” he notes.

“At the end of the day, I truly believe that alongside the warmth of the locals, it’s the surf culture and its deep respect for the environment and nature that sets the island apart. If politicians continue valuing and protecting this culture, Siargao will be in a good place.”

Bonono echoes this sentiment.

“The community is making great strides — there’s a genuine investment in preserving the island’s beauty while ensuring growth benefits everyone,” he says.

“It’s inspiring to see some of the work being done to help the island evolve from not just a surfing paradise but also a model for a sustainable, inclusive community, and we look forward to seeing more people join this mission.”

The-CNN-Wire
™ & © 2024 Cable News Network, Inc., a Warner Bros. Discovery Company. All rights reserved.