Crowds line up for hours in Chicago for tacos from Michelin-starred Mexico City stand
By Charlie De Mar
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CHICAGO (WBBM) — The only Michelin-starred taco stand from Mexico is partnering up with a Wicker Park taqueria for a limited time—and foodies are excited.
They are so excited, in fact, that they have been waiting in line for up to four hours.
Taquería El Califa de León is a humble taco stand in Mexico City that has exploded in popularity this past year since being awarded prestigious Michelin star. The Michelin Guide says there is a good reason why El Califa de León has been around for mor than 50 years.
“This taqueria may be bare bones with just enough room for a handful of diners to stand at the counter but its creation, the Gaonera taco, is exceptional,” the Michelin Guide entry for the taqueria reads. “Thinly sliced beef filet is expertly cooked to order, seasoned with only salt and a squeeze of lime. At the same time, a second cook prepares the excellent corn tortillas alongside. The resulting combination is elemental and pure.”
That taste of Mexico from El Califa de León has come to Chicago—and people were willing to sacrifice their whole day to enjoy what some say are among the best tacos in the world.
The line wrapped around several city blocks and wound around corners. Some got comfortable in chairs as they waited in line, while others relaxed with shots of tequila.
Most waited hours before the doors opened at 5 p.m.
“I got here at 2, but got in line at around 3:15,” said Cedric Mays.
“I took a half day from work,” said Anais Castillo. “I was like, this is something I want to be at.”
They all waited for authentic Mexico City tacos being served in a collaboration between El Califa de León and Tacombi—a multi-city taqueria chain with a Chicago location at 1422 N. Milwaukee Ave. in Wicker Park.
All four of tacos served at El Califa de León were on the menu—the aforementioned Gaonera, bistec (beef steak), chuleta (pork chop), and costilla (beef rib).
“We’re also from Mexico City,” said Castillo. “So I think that there’s just like a bit of pride knowing that, you know, we have one of the only Michelin star-rated taqueria.”
“When you think Michelin star, I don’t think you think taco stand,” said Karla Valencia, “so when I heard tacos, I was like, Michelin star, yes! I was like, I’m there.”
El Califa de León has been in Mario Hernandez Alonso’s family since 1968.
“The line for me is amazing,” he said.
Alonso said he never imagined his no-frills taco stand would draw such praise and loyal following so many miles from Mexico.
“It really changed my life. It’s almost about to be six months since he was awarded this, and I’ve gained so much recognition that I’m here sharing this,” Alonso said through a Spanish interpreter. “I want them, as soon as they take that first bite, everything that they were imagining expecting to be fulfilled and beyond that.”
After enduring cold rain and several hours on their feet, people finally got their hands on the decorated tacos.
“Was it worth three hours? No,” said Mykel Andrew. “But they were good.”
“Amazing—worth all the wait,” said Jeremy Crawford. “We got here around 2:30. We waited for two and a half hours. Worth every second. Worth every penny. It’s amazing.”
If you missed the festivities Wednesday night, or just didn’t want to wait in line, two of the tacos will still be on the menu for the next two weeks at both Chicago Tacombi locations. In addition to the Milwaukee Avenue Tacombi, there is also a location at 126 N. Peoria St. in Fulton Market.
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