It’s one of the world’s largest connected coral reef systems, but few people have even heard of it

By Kate Springer, CNN

(CNN) — Wilfried Gebhardt still remembers his first dive at Apo Reef over 30 years ago.

The now-retired German geographer had just moved to Sablayan, a municipality on Mindoro island, southwest of Manila, to assist victims of the 1991 Mount Pinatubo eruption. While stationed there, he heard about a magical underwater world nearby.

“There was 60-meter visibility — it was incredible,” Gebhardt, 68, tells CNN Travel, remembering his first dive. “I saw hammerheads, Napoleon wrasse and sea turtles swimming by a wall of corals.”

Set off the coast of Sablayan, Apo Reef Natural Park spans 13 square miles (around 33 square kilometers), making it the world’s second-largest contiguous coral reef system after Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, according to UNESCO.

This aquatic wonderland teems with marine life, including 530 species of fish and 400 types of coral.

“I’ve dived all over the world, but we keep coming back to Apo every year,” says Gebhardt, now retired in Germany with his wife, Klaudia. “It’s still exceptional.”

A conservation success story

When Gebhardt first started diving in Apo Reef in the early 1990s, it was beautiful but clearly in trouble.

Despite being a marine reserve, the reef was plagued by dynamite and cyanide fishing practices, causing coral breakage and bleaching.

Such activities were prohibited, however, the Apo rangers did not have patrol boats then, making enforcement challenging.

“While diving, you could hear the explosions underwater,” says Gebhardt. “Your eyes would burn from the cyanide.”

Concerned for the reef, Gebhardt and local advocates, including the Municipal Administration of Sablayan and the owners of Pandan Island Resort — a pioneering eco-dive resort east of the reef — lobbied the Philippines’ Department of Environmental and Natural Resources (DENR) to enhance protection efforts.

Apo Reef and its surrounding waters were upgraded to protected natural park status in 1996.

Later, in 2007, a no-take zone was established, prohibiting any type of removal or destruction of natural resources within the park or its buffer zone. Apo Reef Natural Park is currently the second-largest no-take zone in the Philippines.

According to Krystal Dayne Villanada, the protected area superintendent of Apo Reef Natural Park, who looks after the park’s day-to-day operations, two measures stand out as the most successful: procuring high-speed watercraft and expanding the rangers’ skillsets.

“With these watercraft, patrolling and enforcement in the area is more efficient and effective,” Villanada tells CNN Travel.

“The rangers were not just capacitated on law enforcement but also biodiversity monitoring. With (their work), scientifically accepted data on bird census and fish, benthos and mangrove monitoring are now being used to formulate management strategies.”

In addition, the DENR adopted guidelines on sustainable diving and snorkeling, banned single-use plastics and set a strict visitor capacity to minimize the impact of tourism on the park.

In recognition of these efforts, Apo Reef received the Marine Conservation Institute’s prestigious Platinum Blue Park Award in 2022 for its effective management.

It has also been submitted to UNESCO for consideration as a World Heritage Site.

Challenges remain

While protection has improved, challenges persist.

Jan Sidney “Sid” Mahusay, a dive master at Pandan Island Resort, has seen positive changes over the past few decades but believes more can be done.

“They need to double or triple enforcement efforts,” Mahusay tells CNN Travel, adding that meager ranger salaries may mute motivation.

“Some illegal fishing still happens — I’ve seen line and hook, fishing nets, spearfishing, compressor and more.”

Villanada would like to see more support for the rangers.

“The rangers are the foundation of the operation of the protected area,” she says. “More than proper wages and better living conditions, they deserve to have security of tenure on their jobs. Most of them are employed under a contract of service, and there are no regular positions available.”

Mahusay also worries about typhoons, especially around the shallow areas, where the corals can be turned upside down and destroyed.

Gebhardt agrees. “The storms can be devastating,” he says. “They’re the biggest threat right now.”

The trickle-down effect

For Filipinos, the park has created new opportunities, says Mahusay, who has experienced it firsthand.

Growing up on a rice and corn farm, Mahusay had heard about the reef but never visited.

In 2015, while working on the farm, he learned about a job opening as a dive master at Pandan Island and went for it.

“I didn’t know much about the sea,” he admits. “I struggled initially, but I’m glad I stuck with it. The reef is amazing — so much marine life and vibrant coral.”

Now, he guides visitors through Apo’s wonders and feels proud to show others the reef.

“It’s not a huge industry, but it provides jobs for boatmen, resort staff, cooks and dive professionals,” he says. “It teaches people to protect the reef, not exploit it.”

When it comes to the fishing community, Villanada says it’s been positive.

“Through a spillover effect, Apo Reef provides fish and coral larvae to adjacent municipal waters, which serve as fishing grounds for local communities,” she says.

In addition, Villanada highlights the efforts of the Samahan ng Matyagang Mangingisda (Organization of Diligent Fishermen), a group of over 30 fishermen engaged by the DENR to develop and manage biodiversity-friendly enterprises, including the construction of a boardwalk in Sablayan’s mangroves as part of an eco-tourism initiative.

“Samahan ng Matyagang Mangingisda is managing the project, which provides them with an alternative livelihood, thereby decreasing the pressure on marine resources,” she says.

‘In awe of nature’

Both Mahusay and Gebhardt have countless memories of diving Apo Reef.

On one dive, Gebhardt recalls a manta ray gliding overhead, silhouetted by sunlight. On another, he was surrounded by thousands of schooling mackerels.

“The experience is always excellent,” says Gebhardt, who returns to Apo Reef every winter. “These days, I prefer to dive around Apo Island, where the corals are the most vibrant.”

For the more adventurous, sites like Ego Wall and Shark Airport offer exhilarating dives.

Ego Wall, named for its sheer drop-off that plunges 60 meters, is a test of nerve and skill. It rewards divers with a majestic coral garden and barracuda sightings.

“When diving here, you forget your ego because you’re so in awe of nature,” Mahusay says.

Meanwhile, Shark Airport is a sandy stretch of reef frequented by sharks, who often pause to rest in the sun.

Another highlight is Mabuti, meaning “good” in Tagalog.

“It’s good – simple as that, so we called it ​​Mabuti for us, for the Filipino people,” Mahusay explains.

Beyond diving

While diving is the star attraction, an Apo Reef visit offers a few other things to do.

Snorkeling along the shallow coral gardens reveals a rainbow of marine life, from parrotfish to reef sharks.

On Apo Island, a short hike leads to a historic lighthouse, where panoramic views stretch across the reef and the open sea.

“It’s a great place to take photos of the reef’s turquoise lagoons and white sand beaches,” says Mahusay. “Even better with a drone.”

Planning your visit

Apo Reef’s remote location requires effort to reach, which has helped shield it from overtourism.

Just 2,793 people visited in 2023, down from a peak of 7,586 in 2017.

About a dozen dive resorts, liveaboards and no-frills guesthouses in the area venture to the reef on day trips or overnight excursions.

According to regulations, tourists cannot visit the natural park without an accredited guide.

The best time to go is during the dry season, from December to May, when seas are calm and visibility is at its peak.

Certified divers of all levels are welcome, though some parts of the reef require more experience.

“Apo Reef often has strong currents,” Gebhardt notes. “Even at 20 meters, you can see plenty, but the coral walls drop much deeper.”

The most important thing is that visitors are respectful of the natural surroundings.

As Mahusay puts it: “Preserving the reef is essential for future generations to enjoy this incredible place.”

The-CNN-Wire
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